The
Candy Making Industry
in Philadelphia
ISSUED BY
THE EDUCATIONAL COMMITTEE
OF THE
PHILADELPHIA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
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PRESENTED TO THE
SCHOOLS OF PHILADELPHIA
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>UP.l liv lln-
Educational Pamphlet No. i< issued by lln- Educational Conmittee
(.1 ilie Philadelphia Chamber of Commerce.
Copyright. 1417. Philadelphia Chamber of Commerce.
OCT -8 1917
©CI.A473885
The Candy-Making Industry in Philadelphia
By Elhvood B. Chapman
History
WHO would dream as he leaves the confectionery store with the
box of chocolates under his arm that the very ends of the
earth had been ransacked for these sweets? Good Mother
Nature must have given thought to the "sweet tooth" of her chil-
dren when she stored her larder so abundantly with good things —
the sugar cane, the sugar maple, the sugar beet, honey everywhere,
the cocoa bean and the hundreds of flavors that add to the tooth-
some qualities of confectionery: fruits, nuts, vanilla beans, gums,
resins and spices.
From the very early ages man seems to have had a taste for
sweets; honey was the first sweet substance known. We are all
familiar with the Biblical reference, "A land flowing with milk and
honey"; even before the Biblical era, crude confections in some
form were made by mixing honey with fruits.
Crystallized sugar is now the basis of all confectionery. It has
been in use since the early days of the Christian era, the first refer-
ence to it appearing 300 A. D.
Sugar cane was first discovered growing wild in India: Arabs
and Egyptians in these early days prepared candy by crystallizing
sugar from the juice of the cane. It was first introduced into
Europe by the Crusaders, who brought it with them from the Holy
Land. Sugar was then used principally by apothecaries to disguise
the taste of drugs, and it was only about two hundred years ago that
the confectionery industry began to develop independently of its
medicinal association. The growth of the industry was very slow :
it is only within the last half century that it has begun to assume
larger proportions.
Early Philadelphia Candy Makers
The earliest mention that is made of a confectioner in Philadel-
phia was in 1765; Abraham Smith conducted a fruit business at
that time and sold a few simple candies. In 1800 an advertisement
of Bosse's Ice Cream House, Germantown, appeared in the "Aurora,"
mder date of July 22; syrups, cakes, wines, jellies and a few con-
fections were sold. Irving, in "Salmagundi," in the stranger in
Pennsylvania, tells how molasses candy was made in Philadelphia
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
in 1807. These are the only references that can be found to the
trade prior to 1816.
The history of the business in Philadelphia really dates back
to this year, just one century ago; prior to 1818 but little is known
of the local trade with the exception of the few instances cited. At
that date there were published the names of twenty confectioners in
this city ; the one who seems to have been most prominently known
among these was Sebastian Henrion, who was then located at 15
S. 4th Street, afterwards at 118 High Street (Market Street). He
retired in 1844, being succeeded by the firm of Henrion & Chauveau :
this latter firm continued until 1857. Others who obtained prom-
inence at this time were Paul Lajus, N. E. cor. 3rd & High Streets,
afterwards at 86 High Street, and Jeffrey Chew, 262, and later 301,
S. 5th Street; the former continued in business until 1841 and the
latter until 1848. In 1833 George Miller commenced business and
continued until the time of his death.
All of these firms and their successors have disappeared, the
only living representative of any of them who is at present identified
with the industry is A. J. Chauveau, now engaged in the manu-
facture of confectioners' novelties. Mr. Chauveau has in his posses-
sion what is probably the oldest piece of candy in existence in this
country, a piece of conserve made about 1845. Crude though it
seems, it doubtless brought joy to the heart of some appreciative
maiden.
Piece of candy made about
1S45
Fancy paper in which
it was wrapped
Prior to 1845 there were few attempts to manufacture high-
grade confectionery, the local dealers contenting themselves with
molasses candies, stick candies and sugar plums of their own manu-
facture ; the better grades being imported, principally from France.
In the early 40's, Sebastian Henrion made the first Cream Choco-
lates and Jim Crows, the latter, which were quite black, being
named after a troupe of colored minstrels then playing.
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
Firms Engaged in the Industry To-day
Among the names prominently identified with this industry
to-day are those of Whitman's, Huyler's, Laurent, Maron and Wil-
bur. There are also a number of large manufacturers who have no
retail stores, but sell their product to the smaller confectioners ;
among those might be mentioned Croft and Allen, Brandle and
Smith Company, E. G. Whitman, Quaker City Chocolate and Con-
fectionery Company, Philip Wunderle, John Miller & Son, Manu-
facturing Company of America, and Smith and Peters.
Two firms have attracted attention during the last few years
through the operation of chain stores for the sale of inexpensive
candies; they are Montague and Company, and the Gates Candy
Company.
Huyler's factory and principal retail stores are in New York,
where they were established in 1874. The firm operates a chain of
sixty-one stores throughout the country: these are recognized
everywhere by the familiar red curtain, with its inscription familiar
to all candy-lovers, "Old-fashioned Molasses Candy, fresh every
hour." The Philadelphia store, at 1320 Chestnut Street, was
opened in 1886.
The business of Laurent & Maron was started in the year 1850
on 4th Street above Arch, and five years later removed to the N. W.
cor. 6th and Arch Streets. Later the partnership was dissolved,
and was succeeded by F. Laurent & Sons. In 1878 they removed
to 1306 Chestnut, subsequently to 1308 Chestnut, their present
location. During building operations in 1909 this firm occupied at
different times during the first six months of the year, 1306, 1308
and 1310 Chestnut Street, being closed only two hours during
removal.
Alfred Maron continued business alone at 830 Walnut street,
and in 1874 succeeded Charles Penas, who came to this country
from France in the later 50's. About five years later another store
was opened at 1614 Chestnut Street, the two stores being operated
together for six years. He died in 1914, being succeeded by his son,
A. C. Maron.
Samuel Croft was engaged in retail and jobbing confectionery
business prior to 1868. In that year he formed a partnership with
H. O. Wilbur, locating at 125 N. 2nd Street. Later this partnership
was dissolved and two new firms succeeded them, H. O. Wilbur and
Sons taking up the manufacture of cocoa and chocolate at 3rd and
New Streets, and Croft and Allen the manufacture of a general line
of confectionery in West Philadelphia.
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
&%<?A
tjT 4«> V'.'
1
CANDY BOX < »F 1854
The most remarkable evidence of the growth of confectionery
industry in Philadelphia is the business of Whitman's, established
in 1842 by Stephen F. Whitman. It outgrew its quarters and was
removed in the early 60's to 1210 Market. After several other
changes in location, the continued increase in output necessitated
still larger quarters. In 1889 the business was therefore divided,
the factory being removed to 6th and Cherry Streets, and the retail
store to its present location at 1316 Chestnut Street. In 1906 the
factory was removed to the large building, 411 to 421 Race Street,
and with still further recent additions it now occupies the entire
block on Race Street from 4th Street to Lawrence Street.
To this firm is due the credit for the first attempt to pack con-
fectionery in boxes ; this was in 1854, and from this small beginning
has developed the wonderful system of to-day, candies being now
packed in the most artistic manner in handsome boxes, some of
which contain as much as ten pounds.
Size of Industry and Present Importance
Some idea may be gained of the rapid strides which the indus-
try has made in Philadelphia within recent years when it is stated
that from the twenty small stores in 1816. with their very limited
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia 7
production, it had grown in 1915 to 131 establishments, none with
less than five employees, and from a volume of $766,000 in 1860
it had increased to $7,398,651 in 1915.
Process
To trace the contents of a box of confections back to the sources
of their ingredients, and then to follow, step by step, their shipment,
their assembling and the various processes through which they go
in the course of their manufacture, would require volumes. For
our purpose here it will suffice to describe briefly the making of
two or three typical pieces.
Making Cream Chocolates
Every one is familiar with the Cream Chocolate, which was
one of the first to be made, but few could imagine the steps
that are required to bring it to perfection. In the first place,
to make the center, a quantity of sugar is placed in a large copper
pan and sufficient water added to enable it to be melted quickly over
heat ; after the sugar is dissolved, the process of boiling is continued
for a sufficient length of time to evaporate a great deal of the excess
water. When this is made in quantities of not over thirty or forty
pounds, it is cooked in a shallow copper pan, about twenty-four
inches in diameter, and during the process of boiling is stirred with
a large wooden paddle. In the larger factories of to-day this process
is mechanical, the copper pans being made of sufficient size to con-
tain a whole barrel of sugar, and the stirring being done by rows
of paddles attached to a power-driven axle in the center of the
kettle.
When the process of boiling as above described is ended, a
heavy syrup is obtained. This is poured while still hot on a large
cast-iron table, about five to six feet in diameter, with an edge
about six inches high. This table is made with double walls, and is
cooled by means of water circulating between the inner and outer
wall. As the syrup cools gradually it is kept constantly in motion
by pieces of iron, shaped somewhat similar to a plow-share, which
are attached to arms driven from the center of the table and kept
constantly revolving. This constant agitation prevents the forma-
tion of large crystals of sugar, so that when the syrup is cooled and
hardened and the process of crystallization has been completed the
crystals are so minute as to be hardly noticeable. The heavy,
viscous mass which results gives a soft, smooth feeling on the
tongue when tasted, and hence derives its common name, "Cream."
Under the old-fashioned methods, when cream was made in small
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
quantities, it was poured on a large slab of marble hollowed out in
the center, and while cooling was worked up by hand, two men
standing on opposite sides of the marble slab, using large wooden
paddles for this purpose.
The next operation is the molding of this Cream into the
proper shapes, to be covered with Chocolate. This is done in
powdered starch: a shallow wooden tray is filled with very finely
powdered corn-starch, which is leveled flush with the sides of the
tray. A printing frame, consisting of a board to which are attached
a number of rows of wooden molds, each one the size and shape of
the cream center, is pressed firmly into the starch, and when with-
drawn it leaves a number of depressions, in which the cream is to
be molded. The cream is then melted, flavored with vanilla or
other flavors, and poured into the depressions in the starch by
means of a funnel ; the mouth of the funnel is closed by means of a
short stick, which fits it closely. The candy maker moves rapidly
from one depression to the next, allowing a small quantity of cream
to flow into each depression by alternately opening and closing the
end of the funnel. This is known as casting.
starch-board
Containing 126 cream centers. Printing frame above
Some casters, after years of experience, become so expert that
they can mold row after row of these cream centers as fast as it is
possible to move the funnel from one depression to the next. These
trays, when filled, are laid aside in tiers for several hours to allow
the cream to cool and become sufficiently firm for handling.
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
The Mogul Machine
One of the greatest strides in the making of confectionery was
the introduction, a number of years ago, of a machine known as the
Mogul, which performs mechanically this operation of casting; one
machine, attended by three men, being able to do the work formerly
done by twelve to fifteen men. In one end of this machine the
starch boards filled with the molded creams are placed, one
at a time. They are then automatically emptied, the starch
""
THE MOGUL.
For refilling- and leveling trays, molding and casting.
This machine empties the starch-boards, refills
and levels them, then prints the starch,
making molds in it, and fills these
molds with sugar cream
being separated from the creams and the latter delivered at one
side of the machine. After this the starch is sifted through fine
sieves to remove any small particles of sugar, and the board, which
has been emptied, is refilled with starch, the top leveled, and
delivered on an endless belt for the operation of printing and casting.
As the starch tray moves along the endless belt, a printing
board similar to the one described in the hand operation is pressed
down upon it automatically, leaving row after row of depressions.
It then moves one step further, coming directly underneath a large
copper tank filled with melted cream, which is kept at the proper
temperature by means of a steam-jacket. From the bottom of this
tank extends a long row of tubes, each one directly above one of the
depressions in the starch. Each of these tubes is fitted with a tiny
pump, which, as the starch board moves under, automatically
delivers a measured amount of the melted cream. The tray is then
pushed a few inches further and another row filled. When the last
row has been filled the tray is removed from the machine by the
attendant and the next tray appears, ready to be filled in the same
way. The cream centers, which have been separated from the
starch, are then sent in large trays to the Chocolate Coating room.
10
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
Chocolate Coating
The original method of chocolate coating, and one which is still
in use for the finest grades of work, is entirely a hand process. The
table for chocolate coating consists of a large square marble slab,
accommodating four girls, one on each side. In the center is a
kettle of chocolate, warmed by steam or electricity to a sufficient
temperature to keep it soft. A small quantity of this chocolate is
I ' I [OCOLATE-COATING MA RBLE
Twenty-five of these, each accommodating- four girls, are placed in rows
in the room
ladled from the kettle and poured on the surface of the slab to cool.
The operator watches this cooling process very closely, and when
the correct temperature has been reached, which is determined
simply by her delicate sense of touch, the cream is rolled in it until
it is covered to a sufficient thickness. It is then placed on a tray to
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
11
harden. This operation requires an unusual degree of skill, for if
the temperature is slightly high and the coating too soft, it will
flow from the cream, leaving a very thin covering at the top and a
very heavy "foot" at the bottom. On the other hand, if the coating
is too cool when the operation is performed, the resultant chocolate
will be rough and irregular, instead of leaving the smooth, glossy
appearance which is so much desired.
The process of stamping the manufacturer's name on the bot-
tom of each chocolate is accomplished simply by placing each fin-
ished piece, while still warm and soft, on tins or heavy papers hav-
ing the name embossed on them at intervals.
Another great stride in the manufacture of confectionery has
been made in chocolate coating. The machine which accomplishes
this is called the Enrober. In this process the centers are placed in
THE ENROBER
For coating chocolates
rows on a moving belt, which carries them to the machine. Here
they encounter a short belt of wire mesh, through which soft
chocolate is being forced from underneath. As they pass over this,
a coating of chocolate is applied to the bottom of each piece. The
cream centers, thus coated, then move automatically to a third belt,
which carries them to the next operation. They pass over a short
section of wire mesh belting, above which is suspended a tank of
chocolate coating kept warm by means of a steam-jacket. From
the bottom of this tank a thin sheet of the chocolate flows con-
tinuously, coating the tops and sides of the creams as they pass
under. The surplus coating flows through the wire mesh into a
pan beneath, from which it is automatically pumped again to the
suspended tank. The finished chocolates then pass on to a fifth belt,
to which are attached, at intervals, sheets of heavily waxed paper.
As each of these is filled, it is removed by an attendant, placed in
tiers on a movable truck, and carried to a cool room for the chocolate
to harden.
12 The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
While the Enrober does excellent work, it is impossible to
obtain the same degree of fineness and regularity as in handwork,
and it is for this reason that the old method is still used for the
finest grades of chocolates.
The methods just described are typical of the manufacture of
a large proportion of the goods which enter into the confectioner's
assortment ; the variety of chocolates being obtained by substituting
nuts, fruits, jellies, caramels, marshmallows, etc., for the cream
centers first described.
The Manufacture of Chocolate Coating
The process of the manufacture of the chocolate coating itself
is interesting and may be described quite briefly. Chocolate is
obtained from the cocoa bean, the varieties most used being grown
principally in South and Central America, the West Indies, Ceylon
and Africa. These vary greatly in flavor, aroma and strength. To
obtain the best results, various grades are combined, very much as
is done with coffees. The pods in which the beans grow are about
the size of a cocoanut, but they are removed from these pods before
being shipped. When received by the confectioner they are first
placed in huge revolving ovens over a slow fire and roasted to such a
point as will bring out to the fullest extent the delightful aroma of
chocolate. They are then coarsely ground, the hulls being separated
from the bean itself. These broken beans, or nibs, as they are
called, are then taken to the milling machine, in which they are
ground very fine by being passed successively under heavy mills of
stone or iron, somewhat similar to those used in the grinding of
flour. Considerable heat is generated in this process, and the
resultant mass is a brownish liquid of the consistency of molasses,
known as "chocolate liquor." This is really a mixture of dry cocoa
and the oil from the bean, which is known as cocoa butter. The
cocoa is separated from the butter by means of a hydraulic press ;
when finely powdered, it forms the basis of the beverage now in
such extensive use.
The chocolate liquor, above described, is mixed with powdered
sugar and a small additional portion of cocoa butter in the melanger,
then run repeatedly between heavy steel rolls to crush still further
the fine particles in order to obtain the smoothness which is so
much prized. In fine confectionery the chocolate is subjected to
this process as high as sixteen to twenty times. It is these many
operations, carried on with the greatest degree of care by skilful
and high-priced workmen, that account for the difference in price
between the choice grades of confectionery and those sold at lower
prices.
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
13
The Jordan Almond
Another interesting piece is the Jordan Almond. Who would
think that nearly a full day is required to make the simple sugar-
coated almond, with its smooth, hard covering?
For this process a large revolving copper kettle is used, the
outside encircled by steampipes; this is known as a "basin." The
basin resembles a huge hollow cone, lying on one side, with the base,
which is open, turned up. The cone is pivoted at its apex, thus
revolving in nearly a horizontal plane.
MAKING JORDAN ALMONDS
Long rows of these basins face one another, the operator working
between them. This shows only one row
As the great basins start to revolve, one hundred pounds of
almonds, thoroughly dry, are placed in each and steam is turned
into the pipes. When the nuts are well heated, a ladle of hot syrup
(sugar dissolved in water) is poured over them. The rotary motion
of the basin causes the almonds to tumble over and over one another,
thus distributing the syrup till each is covered with a thin film,
about l-500th of an inch in thickness. When this is dry and hard,
14 The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
another ladle of syrup is added and then another, until slowly and
laboriously the shell of sugar attains the desired thickness. The
better grades have a comparatively thin coat, the cheaper ones
much thicker. The various flavors and tints are obtained by add-
ing, at the end, a ladle of colored and flavored syrup.
Decorative Candy
While machinery is used in almost every process of candy
manufacture, there is one field in which it cannot compete with
hand-made goods. This is the production of exquisite, hand-made
pieces for decorating the dinner tables at banquets and state occa-
sions.
DECORATIVE BASKET
Made entirely of Hard Candy
The basket shown in the illustration was made by one of the
leading Philadelphia confectioners. It represents hours of tedious
work by two expert candymakers, being made of hard candy,
worked while hot and soft into the desired shape. The basket is
woven of long strands, about one-quarter of an inch in diameter.
The flowers are built up petal by petal, each piece being deftly
formed by itself and then fastened to the stem. The basket itself
is filled with spun sugar, fine hairlike strands, in one soft mass, and
in this are placed the fruits or ices to be served for dessert.
Distribution
In the confectionery business there are two very widely differ-
ent means of distribution.
The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia 15
In the first, the various kinds of chocolates and other candies
are handled in bulk, being packed in five-pound boxes, or sometimes
in pails. These are handled just like wheat or any other com-
modity, and the identity of the manufacturer is lost before it
reaches the consumer. They are generally sold through jobbers to
the smaller retail confectioners, who market them as their own
goods, in connection with certain lines which they themselves may
manufacture. This method of distribution applies principally to
the cheaper grades of candy, and also to those kinds which require
a large plant and extensive equipment for their manufacture, such
as chocolate coating, marshmallows, gum drops and pastes. In
most instances, even the smallest confectioners manufacture the
simpler goods, such as stick candy, molasses taffies, etc., and a great
many get up their own lines of chocolates by making the centers
and purchasing the chocolate coating with which to cover them.
In the second method of distribution the goods are packed by
the manufacturer himself in small boxes of varying sizes suitable
for retail consumption, and in many instances in small cartons,
retailing from five to twenty-five cents. These, too, are sold in
some instances through jobbers, but in the case of higher-priced
goods they are usually sent direct from the manufacturer to his
retail agent. In this way it is possible to handle, even at a dis-
tance, many perishable goods which otherwise could be sold only at
the place of manufacture. To the firm of Whitman's belongs the
credit for having been the first to pack confectionery in attractive
boxes for widespread distribution. These are now shipped to all
parts of the country, from Maine to Alaska, as well as to our
insular possessions.
^ OF CONG**
4 635 757 A
EDUCATIONAL PAMPHLETS
ISSUED BY THE
PHILADELPHIA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
PURPOSE — To make Philadelphia's life, industry, history, and government
known, understood, and appreciated by all its citizens.
No. I Thrift — a short text-book
No. 2 The Trust Companies of Philadelphia
No. 3 The Rug and Carpet Industry of Philadelphia
No. 4 The Locomotive Industry in Philadelphia
No. 5 Truck Farming in Philadelphia
No. 6 The Candy Making Industry in Philadelphia
No. 7 Leather and Glazed Kid Industry in Philadelphia
No. 8 Mills— Distribution in Philadelphia
